A Summer of Greek Fine Wine: Part 2 – Tasting the ALS Extreme Terroir 2021 Assyrtiko…
The ALS Assyrtiko is an exceptional terroir driven dry white wine creation from three young Greek winemaking talents in Yiannis Papaoikonomou, Ilias Roussakis and Alexis Kolovos. Yiannis Papaoikonomou studied oenology in Athens before coming to Santorini in 2009 to work at Domaine Sigalas, where he worked as a vineyard manager and as an assistant winemaker. In 2013, Yiannis left Santorini to go to Chile, New Zealand and France for further work experience and in 2015 he finally returned to Santorini, joining the Vassaltis Winery, helping to build it from scratch with Ilias Roussakis.
The ALS 2021 was produced from a manually picked cluster selection in the vineyards. Harvested very early in the morning, the fruit from Santorini was then transported to Syros in a refrigerated truck where it underwent direct pressing with racking after 12 hours. After fermentation, the wine saw bâtonnage for four months and then lay “Sur Lie” for circa 12 to 13 months.
ALS Extreme Terroir Assyrtiko 2021, Santorini, 13.5% Abv.
The 2021 vintage was an extraordinarily difficult vintage across the island of Santorini. All the more reason for the ALS team to put in the extra effort to deliver a wine with excellent purity, tension and freshness. The aromatics are subtle but complex, boasting notes of peach skins, wet straw, oatmeal, sweet herbs, oyster shell and basaltic stony minerality. The medium bodied palate is cool, lean, and taut, bristling with a vibrant acidity and tightly packed flavours of white peach, green pear, toasted almonds, and a subtle tangerine peel pithiness. The wine shows a fine balance and a delicate salinity with a certain “maritime affinity,” finishing with bright acids and a sleek textural precision. Not quite the intensity and power of previous releases, but certainly a great success for the vintage. Drink on release and over the next 5 to 8+ years.
(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Wine is available cellar door for circa £65 per bottle. Currently imported by Flint Wines.